Monday, Labor Day, was another
travel day for us—this time only 153 miles to Robertsdale, Alabama and the
Wilderness RV Park. We hit the road a
little after 10 Monday morning, and arrived at 1 that afternoon.
The park is pretty secluded, hidden
among old growth live oak trees, about 2 miles south of I-10 at Exit 53, 30
miles east of Mobile and 35 miles west of Pensacola. We decided to stay at the
campground the rest of the day and hit the week running on Tuesday—there’s lots
to see in this area.
Wilderness is an older park, but
does have the all the amenities we need, including full hook-ups. The grounds
are nice, with 2 small stocked fish ponds. The roads are passable, but not good
and, the owner says a pool redo is on the horizon. The sites are adequate with
some trees.
One of our neighbors in the park
restores old vehicles, like this one. Dick thinks it’s the perfect tow vehicle.
Ha!
Tuesday we drove into
Robertsdale for a few groceries, and to do laundry (there are only 2 washers
and 2 dryers at the park and they’re pretty busy). We were hungry for pizza so
we decided on an early dinner at Vitolli’s Pizza in Robertsdale. Pretty good
stuff! We each had a dinner salad to start, with their homemade creamy Italian
dressing—DELICIOUS!
We headed into Pensacola on
Wednesday morning, planning on visiting the National Naval Aviation Museum,
Pensacola Lighthouse and Fort Barrancas. We were surprised—and pleased—to find
that the Blue Angels were practicing their maneuvers that day, so we watched
them for almost 45 minutes before going into the museum. Wow! I can still feel their thundering roar!
The Blue Angel exhibit, inside
the museum, is in a 7-story glass and steel atrium and showcases 4 A-4 Skyhawks
in a diving diamond formation.
The west wing
of the museum is dedicated to WWI carrier aviation and showcases a full-size
replica of the light aircraft carrier USS Cabot’s island and flight deck.
Elsewhere in
the museum are record-setting aircraft like the NC-4 flying boat, the first
plane to fly across the Atlantic (it’s HUGE!!), and combat veterans, including
and SBD Dauntless that flew the Battle of Midway, 2 Vietnam MiG-killers, an A-7
Corsair II that logged missions over Iraq during Operation Desert Storm and the
last F-14 Tomcat to fly a combat mission.
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| Top Left: 1953 Skyway; Top Right: 1957 Demon; Bottom: 1954 Cougar |
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| L: 1943 F4U Corsair; R: Stearman N2S (President George W. Bush flew this in training in WWII). |
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| Photo 1: 1919 Navy Curtis-4 Flying Boat; Photo 2: 1927 Ford RR-5 Tri-Motor; Photo 3: 1934 Grumman J2F Duck amphibian; Photo 4: 1941 PB2Y 5R Coronado (Adm. Nimitz flew in this to observe damage at Pearl Harbor). |
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| L: 1918 Tommy S-4C; R: 1919 Sopwith Camel |
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| Top Left: 1915 U.S. Navy Balloon baskets; Top Right: 1943 Goodyear Airship gondola K-47; Bottom: 1961 Freedom 7 Mercury Capsule (Alan Shepard memorial} |
Memorabilia
from each era of fighting are also featured in the museum, including personal
mementos, flight logs, vintage equipment and flight clothing.
Partway
through our stroll through the museum we had lunch at the authentic Cubi Bar
Café, which is decorated with more than 1,000 squadron and unit plaques
reassembled from the historic Officers’ Club at Cubi Point in the Philippines.
Dick noshed on chicken quesadillas, while I had home-made chicken noodle soup
and ½ of their signature chicken salad sandwich. YUMMY!
We spent
almost 4 hours at the museum before driving to the nearby historic Pensacola
Lighthouse. Built in 1859, the lighthouse is adjacent to the restored Keepers’
Quarters, which was built in 1869. Displayed in the museum, housed in the Keepers’ Quarters,
are numerous exhibits on local history, as well as the lighthouse.
Unfortunately, the lighthouse was closed for renovation—darn—we wanted to climb
the 177 steps to the top (Uh-huh…), but we did go through the museum, which
features the world of the lighthouse keeper and his family, as well as
interesting trivia about the lighthouse. (Is it haunted, like folks say???)
From there we
drove a few miles farther down the road to historic Fort Barrancas, and the
Spanish fort Bateria de San Antonio. Named for barrancas, or red clay bluffs of Pensacola Bay, this site has
served military purposes at least since 1698. And, apparently there have been
numerous forts on this site.
French occupied the bluffs briefly in 1719, but returned
possession to the Spanish. After the French and Indian War, the British then
built a fort here. The Royal Navy Redoubt engaged Spanish ships during the
early stages of the Battle Pensacola—a key encounter of the Revolutionary War.
The British lost the battle in 1781, and Florida once again became a Spanish
colony. Spain subsequently constructed Fort San Carlos de Barrancas at this
site, and during the 1790s added a masonry water battery, the Bateria de San
Antonio. The forts were seized by U.S. troops under General Andrew Jackson in
both 1814 (an action of the War of 1812) and 1818 (part of the First Seminole
War during which Jackson accused the Spanish of supplying the Seminole and
Creek warriors in their conflict with the U.S.). The fort was returned to Spain
both times but was occupied by the U.S. permanently after Florida became a U.S.
Territory in 1821.
After this, Bateria de San Antonio was improved for use as a
water battery, and Fort Barrancas was constructed in 1839-1844. (Interesting
factoid: over 6 million bricks were used to construct Fort Barrancas! These are
plainly visible in our photos.) A large military installation, Barrancas Post,
grew adjacent to the fort, providing barracks, offices, hospitals, and other
necessary support structures for the fort.
(It’s probably a good thing we couldn’t climb the
lighthouse—there were so many steps in and out of both Fort Barrancas and
Batalia de San Antonio, I doubt we’d be able to do much walking afterward!)
An interesting factoid: the first shots of the Civil War
were actually fired on the drawbridge of Fort Barrancas on January 8, 1861,
more than 3 months before the Confederate bombardment of Fort Sumter. The
commander of Fort Barrancas, being concerned over the secession movement in the
Southern states and also aware of rumors that state troops were preparing to
attack the post, posted a sergeant’s guard in the fort and placed his men on
high alert. The guards observed shadowy figures on the drawbridge, and upon
confronting them fired a volley at them when the intruders failed to identify
themselves. Turns out the “intruders” were Southerners from an Alabama militia
company who had heard the fort had been evacuated and were approaching under
cover of darkness to investigate. No one was injured.
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| Notice the artillery damage to the brick walls above. |
The fort was subsequently evacuated 2 days later on January
10, 1861, when the commander moved his men across the bay to Fort Pickens where
he believed he could wage a stronger defense. The fort was quickly taken over
by Southern troops and a standoff began with the Federals. Confederate gunners
began and exchange of fire in November, and again the following January, with
the Union troops at Fort Pickens; the fort was not seriously damaged during
artillery fighting, but there are visible indications of where it was hit by
artillery fire (see last photo of the fort above).
With the force of the Union troops, both in Fort Pickens and
offshore, the Confederates evacuated the fort in May 1862. It once again fell
under Union control, where it remained for the rest of the war. The fort
remained an important army post for many years after the Civil War, but is now
part of the Gulf Islands National Seashore, that stretches from Florida to
Mississippi.
Thursday we spent the day in Mobile, first briefly visiting
historic Fort Condé, where the visitor center is located.
Fort Condé is a replica of the original permanent brick and
masonry structure, built between 1723 and 1735, to the original wooden fort
named Fort Louis de Louisiana, in honor of the French King Louis. After
flooding and outbreaks of yellow fever, the French settlement La Louisiane was
forced to move 20 miles south to its current location. Following the move, the
new fort was built in the shape of a 4-sided star, and named Fort Condé after
renowned General Louis II de Bourbon, Prince of Condé. Its purpose was to
defend Mobile from a British or Spanish attack.
After the French lost the French and Indian War to the
British in 1763, Mobile became part of British West Florida, and the fort was
renamed Fort Charlotte in honor of the British queen. Then, came the Spanish in
1780, who captured the fort when British were preoccupied with the Revolutionary
War, and renamed the fort Fuerta Carlota (Spanish for Fort Charlotte). In 1813
the Spanish handed over the fort to the Americans, and at that time Mobile and
surrounding territory became part of the Mississippi Territory until Alabama
gained statehood in the 1819. The nearly 100-year old fort was demolished in
the 1820s, and the land was used for urban development.
During the construction of the George Wallace Tunnel, which
lies directly below the fort, one bastion of the fort was uncovered. The city
obtained the original plans for the fort from France and rebuilt a section of
it. Fort Condé now serves as the city’s official Visitor Center, and is part of
the History Museum of Mobile.
From there we boarded a trolley for the historic 90-minute
tour through the town. We toured past over 20 historic homes, museums, and
attractions in Mobile. These are just a few of what we passed: the Church
Street Cemetery (dating back to the early 1800s, it was divided into 3
sections: the northeastern 1/3 was for Catholics, the southeastern 1/3 was for
Protestants, and the remaining western section was for strangers, including
Masons, Odd Fellows, veterans, and the indigent—it was closed to burials in
1898); Callahan’s Irish Social Club (opened in 1946); historic Oakleigh (built
in 1833, it has witnessed 3 centuries and 4 families in residence); the
Carnival Museum (a history museum that chronicles over 300 years of Carnival
and Mardi Gras in Mobile); Richard’s DAR House (built in 1860 during the height
of the antebellum period and leased to the DAR in 1973); the African American
Museum & Library (built in 1931, and is currently being renovated and expanded); the USS
Alabama (commissioned in 1942, served during WWII in the Atlantic and Pacific
theaters and was retired in 1962); and the Cathedral Basilica of the Immaculate
Conception (established July 1703, and is the first parish established on the
Gulf Coast, and consecrated for public worship in 1850). The trolley stopped at
the Cathedral long enough for us to go in to take photos and be amazed—you’ll
understand why when you see the photos.
The building is only 164’ long and 90’ wide, but it feels
much larger, especially with the 60’ ceiling.
One of the most impressive sights in the cathedral are the stained glass
windows. The 12 main windows along the sides of the sanctuary are 8’ wide and
23’ tall, each depicting an event involving Mary, the mother of Jesus, in the
life of her son. The windows were made in Germany, and installed over a 20-year
period beginning in 1890. Two other large windows flank the portico depicting
the baptism of Jesus by John the Baptist in one, and St. Cecilia, patron saint
of musicians in the other. Smaller windows are found in each of the 8 doors in the foyer,
behind the cathedrals’ front entrance. Above the 4 middle doors is another,
entitled the Holy Spirit window.
The cathedral has experienced its share of disasters over
the years, including an explosion, a fire, being hit by an airplane, and
hurricanes. In May 1865, a Union Army ammunition depot exploded, killing around
300 people, and burning much of Mobile. The windows and sashes on the north
side of the cathedral were blown in by the explosion (no services were being
held at the time). Then, during WWII, a pilot in training clipped one of the
towers. Then in March 1954 a homeless man seeking shelter in the church, caused
a fire that destroyed the sanctuary. The shell still stood, but the interior
suffered damage from fire, smoke, and water from the firefights attempting to
control the blaze.
After the fire the damaged stained glass windows were sent
to Munich, Germany for repair. The fire-damaged throne and pulpit were replaced
with new ones made of mahogany. The replacement organ was installed and is still
in use today. A massive bronze canopy was installed above the altar, supported
by 4 marble columns. In the 1970s a bronze representation of the Risen Christ
was installed above the canopy and a large crucifix over the tabernacle. In the
2000s the most recent restoration took place. A coffered ceiling was installed
above the main aisle, decorated with alternating gold-leafed fleur-de-lis and
shamrock, symbolically representing the Trinity, as well as the contributions
made by the French and Irish to the life of the Archdiocese. New lighting and a
new color scheme were also added, to brighten the interior. White marble
flooring was installed in the aisles, and the heart of pine floors, under the
pews, were refinished. Embedded in the marble floor of the main aisle are the
coats-of-arms of the Mobile bishops and archbishops. A mural of the Tree of
Jesse was installed above the pipe organ.
In 1962, Pope John XXIII elevated the cathedral to a minor basilica,
a title bestowed only by the pope on churches of historical and spiritual
importance.
After our trolley tour, on the recommendation of the trolley
driver, we drove to the restaurant Kitchen on George for lunch. WOW!!
Kitchen on George is ranked the No.1 restaurant in Mobile on
TripAdvisor, and was recently named to the “13 Alabama Restaurants You Must Try
Before You Die” list, in addition to being honored with numerous other awards.
We sure know why!!! The restaurant is owned by Education Corporation of
America, which operates Virginia College in Mobile, and works to cultivate culinary
art through its students. Locally grown and sourced ingredients are brought farm-to-table
in the healthiest and highest-quality way possible, much due to the expertise
of Executive Chef Bryan Cates who joined Kitchen in July 2016; he’s a graduate
of the International Culinary School at the Art Institute of Charleston. On to
our meal: Dick ordered their blackened shrimp and goat cheese corn grits in a
lemon butter sauce, while I ordered the jambalaya shrimp pasta served with a
local sausage, creole tomatoes, Romano cheese in a Cajun cream sauce over cavatappi
pasta. For dessert we shared a warm bread pudding infused with dried cherries
and served with a warm rum sauce. My, oh, my!!! Our server Dusken, along
with the warm and inviting atmosphere, helped make the dining experience unforgettable.
Thank you to the entire crew! If you’re in the Mobile area, please put this on
your list. You will not be disappointed!
We had to walk off a pound or two after that lunch, so we
left the truck parked and walked through the Oakleigh Garden Historic District,
where Kitchen on George is located. There’s an old neighborhood feel as you
walk around. Sidewalks and massive live oaks line the streets, as you pass some
of the most charming houses in Mobile. Large mansions mingle with small
cottages and humble shotgun houses, all mirroring the economic prosperity of
the 19th and 20th centuries.
Our first stop was to Oakleigh, an 1833 home built by a
Virginian cotton broker and brick mason, James W. Roper. The home is a
remarkable example of a raised, galleried villa in the Greek Revival style, and
is one of the largest T-shaped homes in Alabama. The design allows for
cross-ventilation in the humid subtropical climate of this area. And, it’s a
wonderful example of historic preservation, as it has been adapted and preserved
by the families who have lived there. We were too late for the last tour, but
were able to wander through the lower level and the grounds.
Most of the homes in this area have historical significance,
and are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. There are specific
and strict guidelines that must be followed in order to make the list. The
building must be 50 years of age in order to qualify for marking, and must have
also retained its original architectural character and be well restored or
maintained. Anyone interested in doing work to the exterior of properties
located within Mobile’s locally designated districts must first obtain approval
from the City’s Architectural Review Board. They will review requests for work
and provide guidance to the property owners to find appropriate solutions for
their needs.
Colorful markers are awarded to those buildings meeting the
criteria, which are composed of 2 parts: the banner bears of the name of the
Mobile Historic District Commission and beneath it the original owner’s name
followed by the name of the present owner. The colorful shield displays the
symbols of the 6 flags that have flown over Mobile: the French fleur-de-lis,
the British Union Jack, the Spanish Royal Banner, the flag of the Republic of
Alabama, the 3rd National Flag of the Confederate States of America,
and the United States flag. Markers are awarded 2 times per year, in June and
December.
These are just a few of the homes we passed; you can easily see
the historical markers and banners.
Friday we drove back into Mobile to the Battleship Memorial
Park, a park dedicated to all Alabama Veterans who have participated in all
conflicts of the U.S. Armed Forces. First, we toured the USS Alabama, the 6th
ship named for the state of Alabama. It was commissioned in 1942 and served in
WWII in the Atlantic and Pacific theaters, during which she earned 9 Battle
Stars, and shot down 22 enemy airplanes. She was retired in 1962, and in 1964
taken to Mobile from Bremerton, WA. It opened as a museum in 1965, and was
added to the National Historic Landmark in 1986.
The Alabama is 680’ long, with has a width of 108’2”. During
battle conditions she weighed in at well over 45,000 tons. Her crew consisted
of 127 officers and 2,205 enlisted men, but she normally had about 2,500 men
aboard. At maximum speed she traveled at 28 knots (or 32+ mph). The Alabama was
armed with 9 16”/45 caliber guns (3 main turrets) which were accurate to 21
miles; 20 5”/38 caliber guns (10 side mounts); 48 40mm guns (12 mounts), and 52
20mm guns. Quite the force to be reckoned with, I’d say!
We toured the 3 tour routes available: Red (below decks to
the ship’s stern, including the crew’s living spaces, crew’s galley, bakery,
brig, barber shop, and laundry); Green (below decks to the forward part of the
ship, including Warrant Officer’s living spaces, Marine Corps living spaces,
post office, sick bay, engine room, and radio room); and Yellow (main and upper
decks, including officers’ living spaces, main guns, anti-aircraft guns, ship’s
bridge, flag plot room, and the fire control tower—we did not climb to decks 6,
7 or 8—we were bushed!). Here are just a few photos, selected from the over 500
that Dick took!—for you to enjoy.
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| Clockwise: Captain's quarters; Executive Office quarters; Dentist office; Galley where 2,500 meals were prepared 3 times per day; Enlisted men's sleeping quarters. |
There were 8 deaths on gun mount #5 when gun mount #9 fired
upon them, caused by the failure of the safety feature that was supposed to
prevent the turrets from firing upon each other. The men were completely
obliterated; the only thing left of the unfortunate gun commander was his
boots. Sad.
Within the Yellow tour was a visit to the Jeremiah Andrew
Denton, Jr. memorial room. A Naval pilot during the Vietnam War, Denton was
shot down over enemy territory and taken as prisoner of war for almost 8 years,
in North Vietnam, enduring grueling conditions. Ten months into his confinement,
1965 to 1973, as one of the highest-ranking officers to be taken prisoner,
Denton was forced by his captors to participate in a 1966 televised propaganda interview,
which was broadcast in the U.S. While answering questions and feigning trouble
with the blinding television lights, Denton blinked his eyes in Morse code,
spelling the word “TORTURE”—and confirming for the first time to the U.S.
Office of Naval Intelligence that American POWs were indeed being tortured.
After his release from captivity, Denton wrote When Hell Was In Session, in 1976, recounting his experience in
captivity. It was made into a 1979 film starring Hal Holbrook.
From the Alabama we walked through the aircraft museum
onsite; thought you’d like to see these:
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| Top: this FA18 Hornet was instrumental in bringing down Gaddafi. Below: President Reagan's presidential helicopter. |
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| Memorial to the Marines killed in action in all conflicts. |
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| Top: B-52; Middle: U2 Spy plan like the one Gary Powers flew when he was shot down in Soviet Union airspace; Bottom: USS Drum submarine |
The USS Drum (above), was the first Navy ship named for a drum fish:
the fish is capable of making a drumming sound. She’s 311’8” long, and 27’4”
wide, displacing 1,526 tons. Commissioned in November 1941, she was the 1st
submarine to enter combat in WWII, participating in 13 patrols, through WWII
and earning 12 Battle Stars. She is the oldest of her class still in existence.
Her crew consisted of 7 officers and 65 enlisted men. (The heat had gotten to
us, so we just walked on her deck; we did not venture into her depths.)
At the park are memorials honoring the Alabama Veterans.
John Kennedy said, “A nation reveals
itself not only by the men it produces, but also by the men it honors; the men
it remembers.”
Then, it was home—finally! We were too bushed to go out to
eat—imagine!
Saturday we woke to rain and thunder. Was this weather going
to thwart our plans to go to Bellingrath Gardens, southeast of Mobile about 20
minutes? By 11 a.m. the clouds parted and the sun began to shine, so off we
went.
Bellingrath Gardens and home is the creation of Walter and
Bessie Bellingrath, dating back to the early 1900s. In 1917 Walter was advised
by his physician to buy an abandoned fishing camp on the Fowl River so this
overworked businessman could “learn how to play.” (Walter was Mobile’s first
Coca-Cola bottler, and a workaholic.) It was dubbed “Belle
Camp” and was soon being beautified by Mrs. Bellingrath and her love of
flowers.
The gardens began to develop and in 1927 the Bellingraths
hired an architect to convert the old fishing camp to a country estate. The
original design included flagstone walkways, fountains, a formal rose garden,
and conservatory. Nestled among oak trees, Spanish moss, and the Fowl River,
the 65-acre gardens have blooms every day of the year. Today there are also
rockeries, a riverfront walk, butterfly garden, a great lawn, an Oriental American
garden, and a chapel, as well as other interesting features.
In April 1932 the Bellingraths placed an ad in the Mobile
newspapers inviting folks to come out on a Sunday afternoon to see the spring
flowers. Over 4,700 showed up—Bellingrath Gardens was born.
The 15-room home was completed in 1935, and showcases its
original collection of treasured antiques, furniture, silver, china, crystal
and glass. The exterior features handmade brick and ironwork from a c19th
century Mobile hotel.
Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943, and her husband followed in
1955. The couple had no children, so Mr. Bellingrath created a foundation to
honor his wife and to oversee the gardens and home. Walter wrote this loving
tribute to his wife: “I shall always
think of you wandering through a lovely garden, Like that which you fashioned
with your own hands, Where flowers never fade and no cold wind of sorrow, Blights
our hopes and plans—And on your face, The peace of one whose whole life
through, Walked with God.
– Your devoted husband”
– Your devoted husband”
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| Welcome to Bellingrath Gardens!The Welcome Center Gift Shop and Cafeteria |
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| The Conservatory, built in 1935 to house tropical flowers and plants. |
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| These roses are growing in the rose garden adjacent to the Conservatory. The garden contains more than 2,000 plants representing 75 varieties; it's a test site for All-American Rose Selections roses. |
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| Plants growing in the Conservatory. |
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| More plants growing in the Conservatory. |
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| Butterflies were flitting about everywhere!! |
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| The Gardens! |
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| Bellingrath Home. |
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| The Delchamp Gallery of Boehm Porcelain. It's the largest public display of Boehm porcelain. |
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| The Chapel |
We spent close to 2 ½ hours at the Gardens (we did not do a
house tour), and were starving by the time we left. We stopped for a quick
burger at Hardee's before heading through Mobile and home to our camper. This
was the first time we had been to a Hardee's since we lived in Connecticut back
in the 1980s! Sure hit the spot!
Sunday, after breakfast, I started the blog and Dick took a
115 mile motorcycle ride. He found Fort Morgan in Gulf Shores, AL.
During the War of 1812, the U.S. government learned the
great need to protect the East and Gulf Coasts from enemy encroachment. They
embarked on a major public works project to construct a series of forts from
Maine to Louisiana to help accomplish this goal. Fort Morgan was one such fort,
built to replace the smaller wood and earth Fort Bowyer, which was attacked
twice during the War of 1812.
Construction began in 1819, but due to its isolation, it
took 15 years to complete. Labor was based on a slave-lease contract between
the U.S. Government and local slave owners. Men, women and children manufactured,
by hand, the 30,000,000 bricks needed, as well as the mortar required. In
total, there were 200 enslaved people who worked on the fort.
By 1833 the fort was officially named to honor General
Daniel Morgan, a Revolutionary War hero. The following year the fort was
declared complete. Total cost: $1,026,777.41.
On January 4, 1861, the Alabama State Militia seized Fort
Morgan from the U.S. Government. The fort remained under Southern control until
August 1864. On August 5, 1864, Admiral David G. Farragut’s 18-ship Union fleet
passed the fort into Mobile Bay. The fort’s guns fired almost 500 rounds, badly
damaging some of the Union ships, but failed to sink them. The only casualty
was the ship Tecumseh, which struck a mine and sank within a minute, losing
most of its crew. The sudden destruction of one of Farragut’s best ships and
the resulting confusion prompted his legendary order, “Damn the torpedoes! Full
speed ahead!”
The fleet, making its way into Mobile Bay, cut off the
Confederate’s supply route. After a 2-week siege, and a 24-hour artillery
bombardment on August 22 and 23, the Confederates were forced to surrender.
After the Civil War the U.S. Army garrisoned the fort until
1868. By 1895 modifications needed to be made to the fort, so over the next 10
years the Army constructed 5 modern concrete gun emplacements; and a “battery
duportail” (an armament consisting of 2 12” breech loading rifles on a
disappearing carriage) across the middle of the fort.
The longest continuous period of military occupation began
in March 1898, just prior to the Spanish American War. This period lasted until
the fort’s initial closure in 1923.
By 1941 Fort Morgan was once activated for military service,
in preparation for WWII. It was used as an ordnance depot for incoming and
departing ships. By 1944 the garrison was removed from the fort. In 1947 the
War Department deeded Fort Morgan to the State of Alabama for use as a
historical park.
And, what’s a trip to the beach without photos? Here’s Gulf
Shores:
That’s it for this week, folks. Monday we head to Biloxi, MS
for a week. Stay tuned!
Hugs,
RJ and Gail
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