Monday: travel day! We woke up to 82° and overcast skies. By
9:15 we were ready to hit the road and drive a few miles into Eastpoint,
Florida to have 2 new shoes put on the camper, replacing the 2 tires on the
driver’s side that hadn’t blown—yet… So, now we have 4 new tires on the ground.
By 10:15 we were on the road for a 2 hour drive to Fountain, Florida. Fountain
is between Panama City and I-10. We love those 2-hour drives! After we got set
up we drove into nearby Chipley, had an easy light dinner at Wendy’s and a quick stop at Walmart.
We spent Tuesday just chilling out. We did do a walk-about
through our park, which is located on a small private lake with over 100 active
sites and quite a few that aren’t available. (Apparently there was an issue
with the septic system being close to the lake…?) The park is quite old, but
grounds are pretty decent. It has a small laundry, small club house with a
kitchen and dining area. We’ve got full hook-ups, but the WiFi cuts you off
after an hour, and there’s no cable.
Wednesday was a day for a bit of sight-seeing. We drove 31
miles to Panama City and nearby historic St. Andrew, where we did a walk-about.
(Didn’t want to just to the touristy stuff along Panama City beach.)
St. Andrew has been around since the early 1800s when it was
considered just a vacation spot for people from interior Florida, Georgia and
Alabama who came to the shores of St. Andrews Bay to swim, wade, fish, and
enjoy the cool coastal breezes.
In addition to light commerce during the days leading up to
the Civil War, sailing vessels arrived in the bay to pick up lumber from nearby
sawmills, cotton, and other agricultural products. St. Andrews Bay also supported a small fishing industry.
It wasn’t uncommon to see fresh fish being smoked along the shoreline on a
daily basis.
The outbreak of the Civil War brought much of this activity
to a halt. Union blockade vessels soon took the place of fishing boats in the
bay, and by 1862 the resort community of St. Andrews was all but abandoned.
Instead, this area became a center for the Confederacy’s vital salt industry.
Massive amounts of salt were needed to preserve meat for the Southern armies;
massive saltworks sprang up along St. Andrews Bay as well as other bays close by. Water from
the bays was placed in large boilers and boiled until a salty residue could be
collected from the bottoms of the vats. Salt became one of the most valuable
commodities in the South and was so important that men were exempted from
military service if they worked in the saltworks.
Numerous raids were made against the saltworks by the Union
navy, but they weren’t very successful because as soon as one was destroyed
another would be set up to replace it.
St. Andrews Bay also became a port for Southern blockade
runners as Union warships shut down larger ports. The blockade runners would
quietly slip in at night to replenish badly needed supplies, taking cotton back
out with them to sell in order to keep the Southern economy
alive.
Since then, St. Andrews s has once again become a welcoming
and vibrant area, adjacent to Panama City. Restaurants and shopping bring folks
back again and again. Beck Avenue is the main street in St. Andrews, where you can find antique shops, seafood restaurants, art
galleries, museums and coffee bistros, and quite a few eclectic shops, as well.
Just off Beck to the west is the St. Andrews Marina.
At the south end of Beck Street is Oaks by the Bay Park. A
boardwalk leads from the center of the park to the edge of the bay, with
observation platforms and benches to sit and rest a while.
Beside many live oak
trees, there are a few interesting sights in the park: Old Sentry, a heritage
live oak tree that’s estimated to be more than 250 years old, which means it
would’ve been growing there during the War Between the States; and a 4-headed
Pindo Palm, which is thought to be the only one of its kind in the world. Plus,
there’s the old salt kettle, used by the Confederacy during the War Between the
States to produce the badly needed salt.
As we were walking, we saw these. We've never seen a cable barge before. Hmm... And the pelicans carved into an old live oak tree.
We walked around the town a bit before lunch, seeing the
historic St. Andrews Church which was established in 1887, and Azalea Court, one of the only
real “motor courts”, where tourists to this area stayed.
Then we had lunch—or a really late lunch, considered
“linner”—at Gracie Rae’s, on the water overlooking St. Andrew’s Marina. Wonderful
food! We had mahi mahi tacos and shrimp tacos, served with salsa and chips, and
French fries. We did not leave there wanting for anything, and even had enough
to bring home for another meal. YUM-YUM!
Thursday we visited the Florida Caverns State Park, about 25
miles from our park. The park is a 1,300 acre sanctuary bordering both banks of
the Chipola River in Jackson County, Florida. Its primary attraction is the
spectacular cave tour that lasted over an hour through ¾ mile of underground
passageways and rooms. Some of the passageways were only about 4’ high and 2’
wide. (Suck it in, guys!) Our tour guide, Aaron, was very knowledgeable about
the cave and its history, so we came away quite impressed. Some portions of
the caves flood during heavy rainfall, especially during the rainy season in
the spring, which was evident in the lower portions of the cave. These caverns
are unusual for the state of Florida. They were formed over thousands of years,
as acidic groundwater seeped into and dissolved local bedrock. As years passed,
local fissures turned into holes, and holes into caves. Even though most of
Florida’s groundwater erosion formations stopped at the sinkhole stage, some
developed into caves. Archeologists have discovered human footprints and
artifacts in some of Florida’s caves dating back at least 1,000 years.
In 1935, Dr. J.C. Patterson visited the area where the
park is today and, realizing the potential, bought 494 acres at the sight and
subsequently led a civic drive that called for the formation of today’s state
park. His dream was realized and the Civilian Conservation Corp (CCC) soon
started work building many of the facilities still seen in the park. In March
1937 a government surveyor found where a tree had fallen over during a storm
exposing a big hole in the ground. When he crawled into the hole he discovered
the beautiful formations that we enjoy today. After this discovery, the CCC
continued the excavation and development of the tour cave that lasted to 1942, when
WWII broke out. The CCC used only pick axes and hand tools to carve out the
passageways, and most of the caves then were barely 2’ tall, meaning they spent
much time on their stomachs digging, then transporting the debris out of the
caves in 5 gallon buckets. The workers were paid $1 per day, sending $.75 home
to their families.
This statue was created to honor the CCC.
We returned to our park just before the rains hit, meaning
the beginning of what we could expect
from Hurricane Hermine. It rained heavy for about ½ hour, and got a little
breezy. Then it all stopped. We had expected to get harder hit that evening
around 10:00, but it turned out that we were on the outer western edge of the
storm so even though we got a little more rain and wind, it wasn’t serious. Had
we still been in Eastpoint, Florida where we were last week, we would have been
in the direct path of the storm. Whew!
Friday we visited Falling Waters State Park in Chipley,
Florida, the location of Florida’s highest waterfall. Falling Waters is a 100’
deep, 20’ wide cylindrical pit formed by acidic groundwater gradually wearing
away the bed of limestone beneath sandy soil.
Throughout the park sinkholes and caverns can be found, although this is
the only one that is accessible to visitors. Water drops 73’ to the surface of the water in the sink; the water’s final destination is unknown.
The waterfall isn’t the only interesting sight in the park.
During the Seminole Wars the sinkholes at Falling Waters State Park were used
as hideouts by Indian warriors. The park is also the site of a Civil War era
gristmill, which was powered by the waterfall in Falling Waters. Later, in
1891, a distillery was constructed on the site. And, based only on local
legends and a 400-year old Spanish diary, an oil well was drilled in the park
in 1919. The well reached a depth of 4,912’ never produced a viable amount of
oil, so it was capped in 1921. Archeologists found Indian artifacts in the park
in 2007 that dated between 1,000 and 1,500 years old. The artifacts included bits
of pottery, arrowheads, and what may be the only cave painting in Florida.
The park also offers a 2-acre man-made lake for swimming and
fishing. There was a sign to watch out for alligators, but we only saw fish
jumping—no alligators. We also saw these two beauties: a banana spider and a swallowtail butterfly.
Saturday we woke to rain so we decided to kick back for the
day. Dick did ride his motorcycle for about 50 miles in the afternoon after the rain stopped while I did some overdue
housecleaning.
Rain hit Sunday morning and kept up most of the day,
including lots of thunder. Crazy. We hunkered down for the day, catching up on
various computer stuff. And of course, I knitted. Christmas is coming!
That’s it for this week. Thankfully, it was a bit slower
than those in the recent past! Monday we head farther west, to Robertsdale,
Alabama, near Mobile, for a week.
Stay tuned!
Hugs,
RJ and Gail
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