We decided that we’d catch up on emails and all things
Internet on Monday. Problem: Internet in the RV park is really bad, so we
headed into Hurricane, UT to McDonald’s to use their free WiFi. Problem 2:
because it was Labor Day school was not in session so we were inundated with
families with lots of kids—and
screaming noise… Ugh! We put up with it as long as we could before heading
across the street to Wendy’s for lunch and their free WiFi. Problem 3: their
WiFi was set to only about 10-15 minute usage so we had to continually logon.
Ah, such are the downfalls of RVing…
Other than that it was a good day, albeit very hot. Temps
had already hit the mid-70s at 7:00 a.m., climbing to the high-90s that
afternoon.
Tuesday we were in awe as we spent day 1 in Zion National
Park, viewing only a few of its many features. If you haven’t visited this
breathtaking bit of God’s creation, you really must put it high on your bucket
list.
Zion National Park, which is located in the SW part of Utah,
was once a floor of a shallow sea, and delta of a great river and network of
streams and lakes. Distant volcanoes erupted leaving layers of ash which is
more visible as basalt on the drive into the park than in the park itself. More
than 180 million years ago (according to geologists) a desert of windblown sand
provided the raw material for the Navajo sandstone and Kayenta sandstone, which
composes the 2,000’ high cliffs in Zion Canyon.
The next stage in the creation
of Zion was the slow uplift of the Colorado Plateau, which raised the entire
region 10,000’ starting 13 million years ago. Streams running off the plateau,
such as the Virgin River with its load of sand, pebbles and sometimes boulders,
carved the canyon we see today. Also contributing to the erosion process are
numerous cracks in the sandstone, through which water runs, forming more
avenues for erosion.
The Virgin River is still carving its path, even though the
drought in recent years has significantly reduced the river’s flow. Landslides
such as the Sentinel Slide along the river continually change the landscape of
the canyon. The Sentinel Slide was most recently active in 1995, which resulted
in damage to the road through the canyon. Flash floods can increase water flow
by over 100 times its normal flow, but in 1998, a flash flood increased the
volume of the Virgin River from 200 cubic feet per second to 4,500 cubic feet
per second, again damaging the scenic drive.
Zion National Park covers 229 square miles, in which Zion
Canyon is the prominent feature. The canyon is 15 miles long and up to ½ mile
deep, cutting through the reddish and tan-colored Navajo Sandstone creating the
fabulous formations we see today. The park’s unique geology allows for numerous
plant species to live, as well as 289 species of birds, 75 mammals, and 32
reptiles.
Native Americans came to this
area thousands of years ago with the arrival of different clans of the Anasazi
and tribes of the Parrusits and Paiutes. Mormons, who came into the area and
settled here in the mid-1800s, are responsible for naming this place of sanctuary
and the refuge it provided. Massive stone formations and red cliffs elicited
feelings of reverence in them and the names they gave reflect this: Angels
Landing, the Great White Throne, Altar of Sacrifice, the West Temple, and the
Three Patriarchs: Abraham, Isaac and Jacob.
Originally named “Mukuntuweap National Monument” by
President Taft in 1909, it was renamed Zion National Park, the name originally used
by the Mormons. It was thought that if people couldn’t pronounce the name they
wouldn’t come to visit. I’m not sure that would have made a difference because
Zion National Park is such a spectacular sight. Photos just don’t do it
justice, but we share the following photos to give you an idea of what we saw.
The road into Zion Canyon is 6 miles long, ending at the
Temple of Sinawava, referring to the Coyote God of the Paiutes. At the Temple
the canyon narrows and a paved trail (2.2 miles round-trip) continues to the
mouth of the Zion Narrows, a gorge as narrow as 20’ and up to 2,000 feet tall. Propane
powered shuttles transport visitors to the Temple (private vehicles are not
permitted beyond the Zion Lodge).
We boarded the shuttle at the Visitor Center, riding it to
the end of the road. Along the way I saw a mule deer off to the right in the
shrubs.
Our first stop was at the end of the road, for the Riverside
Walk and the natural amphitheater called Temple of Sinawava. It's also called "the preacher and the pulpit" by some folks.
Along the walk myriad vegetation form “hanging gardens” as
seeping water penetrates the porous Navajo and Kayenta sandstones and shale
allowing the plants to thrive.
Along our walk we decided to eat the lunch we packed, so we selected a quiet spot along the river atop some rocks. We had visitors who
begged for bits, but we thoughtfully declined as there is a $100 fine for
feeding wild animals in the park.
Next on our list was a stop at Big Bend for a fabulous photo
op. This stop allows for a 360 degree view of surrounding rock formations.
Our next
stop of the day was at the Court of the Patriarchs, a spectacular view of
Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob peaks, as well as Mount Moroni.
The last
stop of our first day in the park was at the Zion Human History Museum, which
had indoor exhibits, art exhibits and a 30-minute orientation film describing
Zion National Park and its history. Very interesting!
The day, by
this time, had grown very hot (upper 90s and into the 3-digits), so we called
it a day and headed back to the campground.
Day 2 in Zion would be Thursday.
We headed
to Mesquite, NV’s CasaBlanca Casino on Wednesday to meet up for lunch with friends
Steve and Sandee who had lived in Federal Way, WA and attended the same church
as us. They now live in Golden Valley, AZ. Was so good to visit with them
again; it was like we had never been apart, even after 7 years. We played a few
“games of chance” (Dick at Blackjack, and me at Wheel of Fortune); I came out
ahead $.91 and Dick came out with $90 to the good!
When we
left Mesquite in early afternoon, the temps had soared to a whopping 107
degrees! Whew!
Thursday
was our second day at Zion. We again boarded the shuttle at the Visitor Center with
our first stop at Weeping Rock, a ½ mile hike, often steep, up a paved path.
Weeping Rock is a rock alcove high above the canyon floor with dripping
springs, ferns and moss covered rocks. The vista was stunning. It’s well worth
the hike up to see it. On our hike up to see Weeping Rock we saw a mule deer
walking on a trail above us. Very cool! But we were sad to see how emaciated she
appeared to be. Apparently there was also a fawn with her but we didn’t see it. Here's a link to a video of Weeping Rock, too.
We stopped
at The Grotto next, which is a portion of a trail through the canyon leading to
the Zion Lodge and Emerald Pools. High above us was Angels Landing. Here, as we
crossed a foot bridge, we noticed another mule deer down in the river. It was
not at all timid, but just took all the onlookers as a normal occurrence.
We had
packed a lunch again so decided to eat it outdoors at the Zion Lodge, assuming
we could find a shady spot, which we did.
During lunch we noticed a parrot perched on a bicycle under one of the
trees. Turns out his name is Kramer; he rides with his owner who appeared to be
quite a bicyclist. The only thing we found out about Kramer is that he gets
very agitated by river rapids. Here's a link to Kramer--enjoy! After lunch, while I checked out the Lodge and
store, Dick walked to the Lower Emerald Pool, about a 1 hour trek round-trip.
He said he had to be very aware of where he stepped as he looked up at the
surrounding cliffs due to the steep drop-offs—no railings.
By the time
Dick returned to the Lodge the temps had climbed to 101 degrees; we decided to
call it a day. The shuttle dropped us off at the Visitor Center, where we
purchased the obligatory t-shirts, climbed in our big black truck, turned on
the AC and headed back to the camper. We arrived to temps hitting 104.
Friday was
a day to recoup. I made a blueberry coffee cake with frozen wild blueberries
from Canada (lovingly preserved in my mom’s freezer for quite a few years, I’m
sure). Good stuff! It was a hit not only with Dick, but with neighbors Jerry
and Barb from Wisconsin. We ran a few errands, but didn’t do much else.
On the
return trip from errands we stopped at Quail Creek Reservoir, which is within a
mile of our campground, to take some snaps. Quail Creek Reservoir is one of the
most unique geological features in SW Utah. The park is cradled in a long
upwarp of folded rock that sweeps in a northeast direction; erosion creates a
window into its colorful layers and geologic history. Rock layers on the east
side are tilted toward the east, while rock layers on the west side are tilted
toward the west. The bacon-striped layers are formed from red mudstone and
white gypsum. The yellowish brown sandstone and pebbly sandstone which appear
at the tops of the surrounding cliffs were deposited by rivers that once flowed
in this area, ultimately causing the erosion of porous rock.
The
original earthen dam, built in 1984, catastrophically collapsed in 1989 causing
over ½ of the volume of water in the reservoir to be unleashed causing millions
of dollars in damage, but no fatalities. The blame: poor engineering and
construction caused seepage to dissolve the gypsum at its foundation. Completed
in 1990, the new dike is about the same size, but constructed with a
roller-compacted concrete foundation.
Although
there wasn’t much action on Friday when we stopped, weekends bring the crowds
to the water, which looks to be 8-10’ low due to the drought.
We always
hope for cooler weather to last throughout the day when it’s 64 degrees at 7:00
a.m. However, again on Saturday, that was not to be. Temps climbed to 104 by
the afternoon. We did have an enjoyable lunch in St. George, UT meeting up with
a former co-worker and her husband at a delightful restaurant, The Painted
Pony. I hadn’t seen Veronika since she retired in 2010, after which she and her
husband Mike moved to St. George. Before meeting up with them we walked through
the adjacent Farmers’ Market, enjoying the live music. For lunch we dined on a
roasted carrot and red pepper soup, gorgonzola salad, a turkey club, a grilled
Portobello sandwich, meatloaf with mashed potatoes and a lovely Cobb salad.
Need I say YUM?? YUM-YUM! The Painted Pony is a definite “must” for a meal stop
if you’re in St. George.
Returning
home we spent the remainder of the day watching college football. Dick was
pleased that Ohio State won over Hawaii, 38:0, and that Washington State
University won over Rutgers, 37:34.
Sunday
morning we lazed about, until Dick decided to take a motorcycle ride while I
wrote the blog. Temps by 11:30 a.m. were in the high 80s, and due to continue
to climb to the low 100’s by late afternoon. Dick’s ride took him to Virgin, UT
on RT 9 where he hung a left on Kolob Terrace Road headed for Kolob Reservoir. The
Kolob Terrace and Canyon is located in the NW portion of Zion National Park. However
the hard road ended about half way to the reservoir so he turned around—but see
the stunning photos below.
On the
return trip he decided to check out the Red Rock Recreation area located across
I-15 from our campground. Enjoy some more stunning scenery in the photos below.
The Red Rock Recreation area is home to the “Adams House” built by a Mormon
stonemason in the 1860s. It’s built as a “double cell” or “double pen” home,
meaning that there are 2 doors in the front, with a fireplace and chimney at
each end reflecting the symmetry of Greek Revival style. Built on a foundation
of large stones, sandstone blocks make up the interior and exterior walls, with
the space between filled with rubble to act as a sort of insulation. The varied
colors of stone are laid in an alternating pattern; both colors are used in the
lintel stones over the doorways and windows. There are quite a few relics of
these homes in this area, but this is one of the only ones still intact. A
small community of Mormon settlers had settled here creating the town Harrison,
but they moved on to other areas when water resources became scarce.
That’s it
for another week of fun and frolic in SW Utah. Rain from the Pacific storms are
forecasted for the next day or two. We hope to get some relief from this dry
and heat. We continue our stay here next week with a visit to Bryce Canyon
National Park. Stay tuned…
Love ‘n’
hugs,
RJ and Gail
Gail, I'm hoping and praying you two didn't get caught in the rain. Heard of floods in Zion, with several people dying. Your blog said you were around virgin river...that's what flooded. Please let us know!
ReplyDeleteLove and prayers,
Christine