Carlsbad and Santa Fe, New Mexico – May 12-18, 2014

Carlsbad, or rather Brantley Lake State Park, is one windy place! We had heavy 45 mph winds with gusts up to 60 mph Sunday night. With little or no wind break (2 trees on our site) we felt it all! Monday was much more tame, with a high temperature of 77 degrees; sunny, and just a bit of a breeze.

We drove into Carlsbad to use the Carlsbad Library WiFi, as we didn’t have access to the internet in the park. What a beautiful library! There was a totally separate and huge section for kids, one for pre-teens, an area for large print, and the regular sections. Attached to the library was the Carlsbad Museum and Art Center. We didn’t investigate, but if the library was any indication I’m sure it was magnificent.

We had wonderful enchiladas at Mi Casita in Carlsbad, rated the best Mexican food in Carlsbad. Really good food, if you ever have an opportunity to go to that area.

That evening, as we enjoyed the sunset, we saw jackrabbits, a little bunny, and birds near or at our site.

Monday night we were again hit with heavy winds, that began about 9 p.m. Wow! We were rockin’ and rollin’ for a while!

A beautiful Tuesday greeted us, with a sunny 49 degrees; it warmed to the mid-60s later in the day. Since it was a cool day, I thought it would be a great day to make banana bread and cookies. Got the sugar, shortening and eggs mixed for the banana bread, but when I attempted to light the oven it was a no go. There was plenty of propane, so that wasn’t the issue. RV doctor Dick diagnosed the problem as a failed thermo-coupler for the pilot light. No baking until we could replace that part. So into the refrigerator went the mixture, and off to town we go again.

We had planned to go into town anyway to fuel the truck in preparation for our departure Wednesday, buy a few groceries, and see the bats at Carlsbad Caverns that evening—apparently there are thousands that leave the cave at night, and it’s quite a site to see. We decided it was more important to repair the oven than make the trek out to the Caverns that night, so that’s what we did. It had turned rather chilly again, and the wind again started blowing, so we feel we made the right choice—not knowing if the cold and windy weather affected the bats or not, we didn’t want to make the trip for nothing. We found the part at Sutherlands in Carlsbad—just an $8 part! Dick had the oven repaired in about an hour, but by that time I decided it was too late to continue baking.

Wednesday morning was another chilly morning at 45 degrees. Brrr… The high for the day was to be only 60 degrees. It was a good day to travel: Santa Fe, here we come! There’s a lot of empty ranch land between Brantley Lake State Park and Santa Fe, with mountains and buttes in the distance. We got on the road by 9:30 a.m. and had arrived at our destination, Trailer Ranch RV Resort, in Santa Fe, by 3 p.m.

Trailer Ranch is a relaxing adult only park, located in the heart of Santa Fe. They provide level and shaded concrete pads, full hook-ups, free WiFi, cable TV, laundry facilities, restrooms and showers—and a pool. Lovely park. We chuckled when we arrived, because they also provide “Marriage Saving Parking Assistance,” which you would certainly understand if you’ve ever had to help your mate park your rig! In addition, there is city bus service for $1 per day for seniors, with unlimited travel. Perfect for sightseeing and shopping in downtown Santa Fe.

Other than Dick riding the motorcycle to the post office and to scout fuel stops and car washing facilities, Thursday was a day to relax and chill, although I did finally bake the banana bread and do laundry. Temperatures hit a high of about 70 degrees, but at this altitude with no humidity it felt a lot warmer.

Friday was a day of seeing Santa Fe.

Founded in 1607, Santa Fe (meaning “holy faith” in Spanish) is New Mexico’s state capital, and is the oldest state capital in the United States. It’s also the highest at 7,000 feet. Rich in history, there’s so much to share. Click here to read about Santa Fe’s past.

Town planning rules and ordinances established in 1573 required that the town be laid out around a central plaza. In this case, on the north side was the Palace of the Governors, and to the east was the church that became the Cathedral Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi.

The grid of streets radiating from the Plaza was important in planning the city. Many were narrow and included small alley-ways. As Santa Fe grew, building styles evolved, so that by statehood in 1912, the eclectic nature of the buildings caused it to look like “anywhere USA.” In an effort to promote tourism, hoping to reverse the economic decline in the town, the city created the idea of imposing a unified building style, based on the work done restoring the Palace of the Governors—the Spanish Pueblo Revival style.

The sources for this style came from the many defining features of local architecture: vigas (rough, exposed beams that extrude through supporting walls, and are visible outside as well as inside the building) and canales (rain spouts cut into short parapet walls around flat roofs). These features can be seen in many old adobe homes and churches built many years before and found in the Pueblos, along with the earth-toned look, or stucco, of the old adobe exteriors.

After 1912 this style became official: all buildings were to be built using these elements. By 1930 the “Territorial” style of pre-statehood was included with the addition of portales (large, covered porches) and white-painted window and door pediments, and also sometimes terra cotta tiles on sloped roofs, but with flat roofs still dominating. (Much of the trim today is painted a vibrant turqouise.) By an ordinance passed in 1957, new and rebuilt buildings, especially those in designated historic districts, must exhibit a Spanish Territorial or Pueblo style of architecture, with flat roofs and other features suggestive of the area's traditional adobe construction. We love how the town has retained the integrity of the Pueblo Indian adobe structures. Following are photos of what we found.

Seret and Sons Architectural Antiques

As we walked through the downtown area we first passed the Santa Fe Museum of Fine Arts which is currently displaying various art forms that tell of New Mexico’s history, and is used for performing arts and lectures, as well.

Then on across the street to the Palace of Governors we went. Built in 1610, the Palace of the Governors has been occupied by five different nations: Spain in 1610; the Pueblos of the Upper Rio Grande after the Pueblo Revolt in 1680; Spain again in 1693; Mexico in 1821 after the Mexican War of Independence from Spain; the United States in 1846 under General Kearny; and briefly by the Confederated States of America during the Civil War, and then again by the United States. Today, lined up outside along the sidewalk are vendors selling authentic Spanish jewelry. (I bought myself a silver bracelet from one of them!)

We strolled through The Plaza located across the street, which as I mentioned earlier, was the center of town, from which the streets radiated. Established in 1610, The Plaza has been used to stage daily markets, public proclamations, floggings, religious and military ceremonies. Since 1821 it has been designated the “End of the Santa Fe Trail.” Today it hosts musical, seasonal and a variety of events, along with vendors selling authentic Spanish wares.

From there we walked east to the Saint Francis Cathedral Basilica, which was built in 1886, around the old parish church which was destroyed in the Pueblo Revolt in 1680. In contrast to the surrounding adobe structures, Saint Francis Cathedral was designed in the Romanesque Revival style, featuring characteristic round arches separated by Corinthian columns and truncated square towers. Above the altar is the San Damiano crucifix, a replica of the crucifix in Assissi, Italy. Tradition says that the Lord leaned down from the crucifix and said; "Francis, go and repair my house." The altar screen was created for the 100th anniversary of the Cathedral in 1986. In the center is an 18th-century statue of St. Francis. He is surrounded by painted images of saints of the New World. Note the brass doors: during the restoration of 1986, new doors were created, each with ten bronze panels that portray events in the history of the church in Santa Fe.

Altar screen

Damiano Crucifix

From there we walked to the Loretto Chapel, or the “Chapel of Light.”

In 1872 the Bishop of the Santa Fe Archidiocese commissioned the building of a convent chapel to be named Our Lady of Light Chapel, which would be in the care of the Sisters of Loretto. The chapel was in the Gothic Revival style, complete with spires, buttresses, and stained glass windows imported from France. The chapel bears an obvious resemblance to the Sainte-Chapelle in Paris.

Two mysteries surround the spiral staircase: the identity of its builder and the physics of its construction.

When the Chapel was completed in 1878, there was no way to access the choir loft, 22 feet above. Due to the chapel's small size, a standard staircase would have been too large. Earlier churches of the period had ladders rather than stairs to the choir loft, but the Sisters of Loretto (who cared for the chapel) did not feel comfortable with that prospect because of the long habits that they wore.

Legend says that to find a solution to the seating problem, the Sisters made a novena to St. Joseph, the patron saint of carpenters. On the 9^th and final day of prayer, a man appeared at the Chapel with a donkey and a toolbox looking for work. Months later, the elegant circular staircase was completed, and the carpenter disappeared without pay or thanks. After searching for the man and finding no trace of him, some concluded that he was St. Joseph himself, having come in answer to the Sister’s prayers.

The stairway’s carpenter, whoever he was, built a magnificent structure with a design that was innovative for the time and which still perplexes experts today. The staircase has two 360 degree turns and no visible means of support. The staircase, it is said, was built without nails, only wooden pegs. There are questions about the number of stair risers relative to the height of the choir loft, and about the types of wood and other materials used in its construction. In 1887, 10 years after the stairway was built, a railing was added and the outer spiral was fastened to an adjacent pillar to guard against damage caused by ground shifting.

We then walked south along The Old Santa Fe Trail to the San Miguel Mission Church. Built in 1610 for the Tiaxcalan Indians who were brought to Sante Fe from Mexico by Franciscan missionaries, the church was the first building burned in the Pueblo Revolt of 1680. The walls were still standing in 1693 and 17 years later in 1710 it was rebuilt following the Spanish reconquest and served for a time as a chapel for the Spanish soldiers. The wooden reredos (decorations behind the altar), including a wooden statue of Saint Michael dating back to at least 1709, was added in 1798. Though the church has been repaired and rebuilt numerous times over the years, its original adobe walls are still largely intact despite having been hidden by later additions.

Directly across the street from the church, on East De Vargas Road, we found the oldest house in Santa Fe. Constructed in 1646, it is built from traditional adobe mud, which you can see if you look closely at these photos. Between 1709 and 1710 the “Oldest House” became temporary residence to Spanish Territorial Governor Chacon Medina Salazar, Marquez de Penuela, while repairs were being made to the San Miguel Church.

Dick wanted to see the Capitol building, so we walked further south.

The Capitol building is unique, as it’s the only round state capitol building in the United States. It’s designed to resemble the Zia Sun Symbol when viewed from above, with four entrance wings protruding from the main rotunda area. 

The first floor houses the semicircular House and Senate chambers, which are not accessible to the public. The second story, which is the ground floor, includes galleries where we were able to view the House and Senate chambers. The House gallery seats 281; the Senate gallery seats 206. The two upper floors are mainly offices, with legislative committee offices on the third floor and the offices of the Governor, Lieutenant Governor, and Legislative Council Service on the fourth floor. We were able to see floors two, three and four.

The following photos are of just a few of the hundreds of pieces of art on display in the Capitol building. The Capitol Art Foundation is a nonprofit organization established in 1991 by the New Mexico Legislature, to assist in the acquisition of art of permanent, public exhibition in the State Capitol. Exhibitions feature contemporary masterworks by artists who live and work in New Mexico. The collection, house both indoors in the public viewing areas and outdoors, consists of a wide range of media, styles and traditions, including furniture. Its mission is to collect, preserve, exhibit, interpret and promote appreciation of works of art that reflect the rich and diverse history, cultures and art forms of the people of New Mexico.

Acrylic paintings on the ostrich shells

My favorite: a mixture of used paint brushes,
old film, old newspapers, a fishing reel, fabric swatches, and
oddles more.

The Rotunda in the center of the building is 49 feet in diameter and 60 feet high, spanning the second, third, and fourth floors. The Rotunda is finished with Travertine marble native to New Mexico and inlaid with a turquoise and brass mosaic of the Great Seal of New Mexico. The ceiling skylight is designed to resemble an Indian basket weave, with blue and pale pink stained glass representing the sky and the earth, respectively. The flags of New Mexico’s 33 counties are on permanent display on the fourth floor balcony.

From there we turned north, walking past the Bataan Memorial Building and the Supreme Court building, to Alameda Avenue, where we indulged in a light authentic Mexican meal of tacos and black beans..

Bataan Memorial Building and eternal flame

Alameda Cafe on Alameda Street

The Café is owned by a young couple who had taken it over from his parents. They did a bit of remodeling and revamped the menu—it was a delightful experience. We shared a taco plate of three freshly made warm tortillas topped with chicken, beef and vegies, with a side of black beans and Spanish rice. Need I say, YUM? What a delightful couple; the café had been their dream—it had been open for only a little over a month, and they were excited. The café had both indoor and outdoor seating. We hope they’re successful.

Our next stop was Santuario De Guadalupe, the oldest extant church to Our Lady of Guadalupe in the United States. Inside hangs a 1783 altar screen depicting the story of Our Virgin of Guadalupe. A funeral was taking place inside the chapel so we were unable to enter further than the door. The statue of the Virgin Mary stands outside in a courtyard.

A visit to Cowgirl BBQ was next, for a bit of refreshment. This popular restaurant serves true west spirits and mesquite-smoked BBQ, regional American, New Mexican, Tex-Mex and Cajun fare. It’s quite popular with tourists and natives alike.

From there we decided to hoof it to Il Vicino for pizza. Located further north on San Francisco Avenue Il Vicini serves gourmet 10” pizzas, pastas, calzones, sandwiches, soups and salads. We had a wonderful wood-fired pizza called Angeli, with a sweet balsamic marinara sauce, topped with mozzarella, artichoke hearts, roasted chicken, Portobello mushrooms, gorgonzola and fresh rosemary. Again, need I say YUM? Wow!

By this time we had walked for about 4½ hours and were pretty tuckered. This elevation makes a difference! We boarded the #2 bus back to Trailer Ranch for a bit of happy hour with our new-found friends Bob and Pamela from Perth, Australia. What a delightful couple! We thoroughly enjoyed chatting and getting to know them. This is their 4^th year here in the States, traveling for 5 months at a time. When they started traveling in the States, they purchased a motor home storing it in California when they’re back home in Australia. From here they’re headed to Taos, then possibly to Branson, Missouri, or wherever they decide to turn the wheel. Typically they don’t make plans, they just go. Plans are for them to head back home in August. We’re so glad to have met them—if we ever get to Perth, we have a place to stay!

Nights are cool here, with temperatures dipping to the 40s but warming to the upper 70s and low 80s during the day. Love it! Saturday was no different. Dick took another motorcycle ride, this time to the Randall Davey Audubon Center, north of Santa Fe. It’s a 135-acre wildlife sanctuary with trails, an education center and houses the offices for Audubon New Mexico. It’s also the site of the historic home and studio of artist Randall Davey. The Center is bounded by a national forest and Sate Fe River Watershed land, providing a sanctuary for plants, animals, and approximately 190 species of birds.

New friends Bob and Pam unhook and head out on Sunday morning. We hope to stay in touch with them—they’re so fun.

Later that day we head to Albuquerque, about an hour SW of Santa Fe, to see friends Ron and Kathryn. (Both couples are like bad pennies—we keep showing up!) They’re having some work done on their year-old 5^th wheel (something to do with the hydraulics that raise/lower and level the unit as well as extend and retract the slides, and their satellite system). We went to Old Town Albuquerque for the afternoon.

Old Town Albuquerque dates back to the founding of the city in 1706. It comprises about 10 blocks of historic adobe buildings radiating out from the central plaza. Today, many of the buildings in Old Town are houses that have been converted into restaurants, and small art and souvenir shops.

On the north side of the plaza is San Felipe de Neri Church. Built in 1793, it is one of the oldest surviving buildings in Albuquerque. The original building was completed in 1719, but collapsed in 1792 after a heavy rain. It was replaced with the current structure the following year. The towers were added in 1861; a parish school was constructed in 1878, and a convent for the Sisters of Charity was added in 1881.

After walking around Old Town for a while, the four of us had dinner across the street from the plaza at La Hacienda: tacos, nachos and taco salad were the fare. Oh, and this was followed by sopaipillas and honey. They served some of the best picante salsa we’ve had. Good stuff!

After a walk back through the streets of Old Town, we headed back to their camper for 3 games of Pegs and Jokers. I won’t say more than women beat the men: 3:0!  Woot-woot!!!

I realize this week’s blog was long, with lots of history ‘n’ stuff. Sorry ‘bout that, but hope you weren’t bored, but were able to glimpse a bit of what we experience on our journeys.

Until next time, when we’ve headed into Arizona and the Petrified Forest…

Luv ‘n’ hugs,

RJ and Gail

A - Rockport, Texas
B - Kerrville, Texas
C - Fort Stockton, Texas
D - Carlsbad, Texas
E - Santa Fe, New Mexico