Weeks in Review: August 5 through August 13

Sunday, August 5 – This morning came early—and cool at 55^◦. As I previously mentioned, this was the Sunday for the outdoor worship service for the Fisherman’s Picnic. We needed to leave Grand Portage by 7:20 AM to get to Grand Marais by 8:00 to pack and load equipment for transport to the harbor.  (Saw a huge doe by the side of the highway on the way to town, and once we got in town saw another…sorta like Northern Exposure!) The sun was shining brightly, but the winds were gusting almost continuously at 20+ mph. Tough to keep music on the stands, let alone keep the music stands in an upright position!  (Bring on the clothes pins and duct tape!!) By 9:30 the temps had risen to a comfortable 68^◦, but the winds were unrelenting. About 150 folks were at the service, plus dogs in all sizes, breeds, and levels of obedience.

Worship team, Cornerstone Baptist Church, plus me

We had time after the service and before the Fisherman’s Picnic parade at 1 PM, for breakfast at the Blue Water Café. We still had time to kill after eating so we browsed through the down town shops and booths set up by local vendors. All streets were closed to accommodate them, selling everything from tie-dyed clothing to wildlife photos and jewelry; pottery to fishing gear and soaps. (Grand Marais has become quite a haven for artisans over the years.) All during the 4-day celebration various contests were held, too: log rolling, fishing, dragon boat races, tennis matches, softball games, bingo, to name just a few. In addition there was live music continuously, from blues, jazz, and rock to bagpipes and folk. (Saturday night there was a boat parade in the harbor followed by fireworks over the water; we didn’t go down to Grand Marais for that.)

While we were waiting for the parade to begin, I looked up and saw my cousin Karyn, (from International Falls, MN) whom I hadn’t seen in a few years. She was there with her parents (my mom’s youngest brother Wally and his wife Gail, also from International Falls), her brother Ryan and his girlfriend, and her sister Ashton and her husband and 6 month old son. Good to see them all again.

Karyn (cousin) and Wally (her dad, my uncle)

Ryan and Michelle

Tuesday, August 7 – We revisited the Grand Portage Heritage Center, to again see the video done in tribute to the Ojibwe Nation.

Wednesday, August 8 – I refused to compromise! My KitchenAid mixer came with me! I make chocolate chip cookies in the morning—YUM!  About ½ of RV park lost power that afternoon due to a broken underground line, so we depended on the trailer’s battery power and propane. Interesting how something like this brings everyone out to share some common and some not so common stories. Crazy.

Thursday, August 8 – Rain started about midnight, continuing until noon, a steady downpour…unbelievable. Power still not restored, so we headed for Grand Marais to stock up on groceries. Spent time at the library as well (for internet!), and had one of our trailer propane tanks filled “just in case” the power was still out, so we would have ample hot water and heat if needed. Thankfully the power had been restored by the time we returned around 3:30, and the rain had stopped. Once the storm had moved off across Lake Superior, there was nothing by a big blue sky and fluffy white clouds. We celebrated with a fresh lake trout dinner. YUM!

Friday August 10 through Sunday, August 12 – The annual Rendezvous Days and Traditional Powwow in Grand Portage! (Following taken from the Grand Portage National Monument 20120 Rendezvous Program)

“Imagine it’s 1797. Canoe brigades arrive loaded with literally tons of cloth, kettles, guns and food, manned by hearty voyageurs, after a six-week voyage from Montreal, a thousand miles to the east. Others arrive from as far away as British Columbia, transporting canoe-loads of furs in 90-pound bundles, taking equally as long. The final link in this global trade system is a rocky, 8 ½ mile footpath known as the Grand Portage. At its trailhead is the home of the British-owned North West Company which is having one of its most profitable years. This annual gathering is essential to its business. This Rendezvous also brings together families and friends to renew old ties. The native Ojibwe, voyageurs, agents, and company partners gather to transfer the company’s goods, to conduct business, and to celebrate their good fortune.”

All during this weekend, Grand Portage was host to hundreds of Ojibwe, as well as others, gathering to celebrate. The Stockade, reconstructed buildings and historic encampment were alive with participants in period dress, at the ready to answer questions and help explain the relationship between Grand Portage and the fur trade, and the 18th Century life of fur traders, clerks and native Ojibwe. Historic cooking and baking was done in the Stockade kitchen, and samples were offered. Workshops were offered for everyone, to help bring to life the day-to-day lives of the people back then, from moccasin making and tin-smithing, to basic basket weaving and cornhusk dolls, Scottish music and haggis* making.

*Haggis (traditional Scottish fare) is a “poor man’s stew”, containing the discarded parts of a sheep (from the rich man’s table) including the heart, liver, lungs, and other internal organs, minced with onion, oats, suet, spices and salt, and mixed with stock, traditionally encased in the animal’s stomach and simmered for approximately three hours; typically served with “neeps (turnips) and tatties (potatoes).”

The Powwow was held in the Powwow Grounds (arena).  Although the Powwow didn’t exist 70 years ago, it has become a celebration of culture and customs.  Dancers, who used to parade into army forts in tribal war regalia, now parade into the powwow arena in dance regalia for a grand entry in recognition of their tribal bands. There is no music, other than the beat of the drum which signifies the heartbeat of the Ojibwe, and the chanting of the singers/drummers.

Grand Portage Stonebridge Singers (drummers)

The drum is regarded as a living being, thus cared for as if it were an important personage commanding respect and requiring attention to its physical needs. It has its own bed, cared for “for the sake of God: appreciate, take care of that Drum good, because that’s his power. That’s why (we) decorate that Drum, make it look pretty, clean, because it is from God.”**
**The Ojibwa Dance Drum: Its History and Construction, By Thomas Vennum                                    

It was so cool to see tradition and culture being passed on to, and accepted by the children and teens. It’s taught at the elementary level in the local school, and reinforced in the homes. Dads and grandpas teach the boys and moms and grandmas teach the girls. Loved watching them dance together.

Here are a few photos of the "Regalia" seen at the Powwow.

Best (we thought) male dancer

Notice the eagle head in the center of his bustle.

Billy Blackwell, local Shaman.
(I went to elementary and jr. high school with him.)

Jr. Ambassadors of the Ojibwe Nation

Jody and Eric

We met Jody and Eric from Leech Lake, who were in the trailer behind us, and here to participate in the Powwow. They explained a lot about the regalia of the participants, and specifically the use of eagle feathers. She dances with two gold eagle feathers, received after waiting for 3 years to receive them. Jody and Eric said that when dancing with eagle feathers, they always carry appropriate paperwork with them, to validate having the feathers in their position, and thus eliminating the risk of have the feathers confiscated by the US Fish and Wildlife Service.

Additional information regarding eagle feathers you may find interesting: http://www.fws.gov/faq/featherfaq.html

“For hundreds of years, Native Americans have used eagle feathers for religious and cultural purposes, including healing, marriage, and naming ceremonies. As a result of years of habitat loss from urbanization, exposure to chemicals used in agriculture and animal husbandry, and poaching, the populations of eagles declined by an alarming rate. In order to protect these birds, the United States Congress passed the Bald Eagle Protection Act in 1940. The Act was amended in 1962 to include protection for golden eagles. The Bald Eagle Protection Act prohibits the take, transport, sale, barter, trade, import and export, and possession of eagles, making it illegal for anyone to collect eagles and eagle parts without a permit.

In recognition of the significance of eagle feathers to Native Americans, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service established the National Eagle Repository in the early 1970's to provide Native Americans with the feathers of golden and bald eagles needed for ceremonial purposes. The National Eagle Repository is located at the Rocky Mountain Arsenal National Wildlife Refuge in Denver, Colorado.

The Repository serves as a collection point for dead eagles. Most of the dead golden and bald eagles received have been salvaged by State and Federal wildlife personnel. Many of these birds have died as a result of electrocution, vehicle collisions, unlawful shooting and trapping, or from natural causes. When eagles are received at the Repository, the condition of each eagle and its feathers is noted, and the species and age is recorded. If part of the bird is missing, damaged or broken, FWS staff may add replacement parts from another bird to make it complete. The bird is then stored in a freezer until it is ready to be shipped to the recipient, usually within 3-5 days.

Permits to obtain eagles or eagle parts are issued by the Fish and Wildlife Service. Only enrolled members of a Federally recognized tribe can obtain a permit. The permit authorizes the recipient to receive and possess eagle feathers from the Repository for religious purposes.

On the application, it must be specified whether a golden or bald eagle, a mature or immature bird, a whole bird or specific parts, or have no preference. (Other information is also required by the Repository, pertinent to the applicant to keep on file.)

Because of the large demand and limited supply, each applicant can apply for only one whole eagle or specific parts equivalent to one bird (i.e., two wings, one tail, two talons) at a time. Once the request has been filled, one may reapply to receive another eagle. Orders are filled on a first-come, first-served basis. Currently, there are over 4,000 people on the waiting list for approximately 900 eagles the Repository receives each year. Applicants can expect to wait approximately 2 1/2 years for an order to be filled.

Feathers or parts of bald or golden eagles and other migratory birds may NOT be sold, purchased, bartered or traded. They may, however, be handed down to family members from generation to generation, or from one Native American to another for religious purposes. Native Americans may NOT give eagle feathers or parts to non-Native Americans as a gift.

Other special item: my brother Rich and niece MacKenzie surprised us Friday night at 11:30 and stayed 2 nights with us. (The air bed works!) They went fishing at Isle Royal on Saturday, and yes, they did catch fish so we had a wonderful meal of fresh lake trout that evening. YUM!

MacKenzie on board!

MacKenzie and Gail

Monday August 13 -  We said goodbye to Char and Bob who have been here for 2+ weeks, and to Jody and Eric who were here for the weekend. We'll stay in touch with both couples as we all hit the road, some sooner than others.

We leave you with a photo of one of the evening sunsets, just before a storm. God shows His handiwork everywhere we look!