Nashville, TN to Louisville, KY to Frankfort, KY– May 24-29, 2016

Tuesday was our day to travel, but not before we helped Linda, a full-time resident at the fairgrounds level her 3-axle 5^th. She was listing quite badly, and had lived in that condition for quite a while so we were glad to help. By the time we got hooked up and ready to leave the time was 11 a.m. Temps were in the low 80s, but the humidity was low so that was a good thing. We had about 150 miles to our next stop in Shepaerdsville, KY, just a bit south of Louisville.

We arrived at Granny’s RV park at about 2:30 p.m. Temps in Shephardsville were in the high 80s when we arrived. I usually don’t cook on days we arrive to new destinations and this was no different. We a Frisch’s Big Boy in Shephardsville that fit the bill: burgers and onion rings, topped off with a chocolate shake. Yes’m, it was good!

Even though this was a short stay in the Louisville area, we packed in quite a bit. We did take a day of rest on before beginning our adventures. All we did that day was get groceries and fuel the truck.

Thursday’s temps started out in the high 60s, heading to the high 80s, and was cloudy with a chance of rain. We spent the day in Louisville, first visiting Churchill Downs where the Kentucky Derby—and lots of other races—are held.

Churchill Downs: We found this to be a fascinating place, and we both felt we could get into horses and horse racing if we lived in this area! Even the history of Churchill Downs was interesting.

The track is named for John and Henry Churchill, who leased 80 acres to their nephew, Colonel Meriwether Lewis Clark, Jr., who was the grandson of famed explorer William Clark of Lewis and Clark. Clark eventually ran into financial problems and sold the racetrack to a syndicate in 1893. The new ownership instigated many changes, including commissioning the famous twin spire grandstand in 1895, adorning the Derby winner with a garland of roses (a tradition that began in 1895), and the shortening of the signature race to 1¼ mile. 

The Downs continued to flounder until 1902 when operation of the business was turned over to the then mayor of Louisville in an effort to bring more positive imagery to the track.  Another group of businessmen then acquired the facility who brought prosperity to the racetrack: the Kentucky Derby became the preeminent stakes race for 3-year old thoroughbred horses in North America. Over time a new clubhouse was built, and new events were held, such as steeplechases, auto races, and band concerts. In 1986 Churchill Downs was designated a National Historic Landmark.

The most recognizable feature of Churchill Downs is the twin spires that sit atop the grandstands, which were designed and built in 1895.  Today, Churchill Downs covers 147 acres, with an oval dirt track 1 mile in circumference and 80 feet wide, however the starting gate section is 120 feet wide. There’s also a turf track inside the main track that is 7/8 mile in circumference and 80 feet wide.

From 2001 to 2005 Churchill Downs underwent a 3½ year, 121 million dollar, renovation. The clubhouse was replaced (including the addition of a 36’ mural depicting all 96 jockeys to win the Kentucky Derby from 1875 to 2004), 79 luxury suites were added, and the twin spires were refurbished.

In addition to the track, clubhouse and stables, Churchill Downs is home to the Kentucky Derby Museum, which focuses on the history of the Derby and Churchill Downs. The museum also includes exhibits on training and racing of thoroughbred horses. It includes a magnificent theater that shows “The Greatest Race,” a documentary about the Kentucky Derby. By the way, only 3-year old thoroughbreds are allowed to race the Kentucky Derby even though they don't reach their peak racing age until they're 5 to 6 years old. Who knew!

We took the Historical Walking Tour through Churchill Downs, and found it to be most interesting and informative. Our Docent Danielle was fabulous, and was able to answer questions we didn’t even know we wanted to know! The tour lasted about 1½ hours, and took us from the museum to the paddock, to the racetrack, and finally to see the resident thoroughbred, Unreachable Star, and his resident sidekick, Winston, a 23-year old miniature horse.

 In October 2013, Panasonic installed a new, ultra-high-definition video board, along the outside of the backstretch of the dirt course, facing the grandstand and infield. Measuring 171 feet wide and 90 feet high, with the bottom edge 80 feet off the ground, it is the world’s largest ultra-high-definition video board ever constructed. It was operational in time for the 2014 Kentucky Derby. Although nothing was happening at the track when we were there, here’s a photo of the big screen. Pretty cool! 

From Churchill Downs we went downtown Louisville to the Louisville Slugger Museum and Factory.

Louisville Slugger: After emigrating from Germany to Baltimore in 1842, J.Frederick Hillerich landed in Louisville in 1856 where he started a woodworking shop. Within 10 years he was filling orders for everything from balusters to bedposts and butter churns. The business was thriving and by 1875 he employed 20 people. His eldest son “Bud” was born in 1866, and by the time he was 14 he was an amateur baseball player and an apprentice in his father’s shop, where he made his own bats along with bats for several of his teammates. Thus Bud played a key role in getting his father’s business involved in what would become the company’s signature item—baseball bats.

Bud’s father didn’t want anything to do with making bats. He had built his business on making roller skids, bed posts, wooden bowling balls, and butter churns. However, Bud continued to improve the process of manufacturing bats, inventing a centering device for a lathe and an automatic sander. Their baseball bat business continued to grow.

Legend has it that Bud’s first pro bat was turned in 1884 for Pete Browning (called “The Louisville Slugger” because of his tremendous hitting power), a star on Louisville’s professional team, the Eclipse. Bud had seen Pete break his favorite bat, so he offered to make a bat for his hero. Browning accepted. Bud lathed a quality stick from white ash—Browning got 3 hits with it in the next game. This was just the beginning.

In 1905 Honus “The Flying Dutchman” Wagner, a superstar shortstop for the Pittsburgh Pirates, signed a contract as the first player to ever endorse a bat. His autograph was also the first to be used on a bat the first time a professional athlete endorsed an athletic product. 

The bat, first known as the Falls City Slugger, referring to Louisville’s location on the Ohio River, became the Louisville Slugger and became a registered trademark in 1894. The company’s success is due in part to the fact that amateur baseball players could now purchase the bat model of their favorite big-league player. In 1915, the Louisville Slugger appeared in a youth-size model and, in 1919, after launching its first national advertising campaign, the company began producing 1 million bats a year.

The above wall of signatures holds signatures of all who have commissioned bats from this company. Cool!  Some are very famous, some not so much...

The addition of a successful salesman in 1911 brought marketing expertise to the company, propelling the company into diversifying products and introducing golf clubs. The PowerBilt brand was created. In 1970 the company began producing aluminum bats, and in 1975 the first line of Louisville Slugger baseball and softball gloves was introduced.

The World’s Biggest Bat, made of steel and weighing in at 68,000 pounds, standing 120 feet tall is at the front of the Louisville Slugger Museum and Factory. It’s the exact replica of Babe Ruth’s 34” Louisville Slugger bat.

Just as we were about to leave the museum, the skies opened and the rain began to fall. And fall, it did! We were parked 2½ blocks away so we got pretty wet returning to our truck. Dinner that night was at Gatti’s Pizza in Shephardsville. It was a pizza buffet, and we ate our fill!

Friday morning was laundry time, followed by a tour of the Jim Beam Distillery in Clermont, KY.

The Boehm family emigrated from Germany in 1740 and changed their name. And now for over 200 years, the Beam family has been making bourbon—the best in the world.

We took a tour at the distillery, led by our Docent Adam. His knowledge and ability to explain the distilling process sure helped us novices understand how complex—but simple—this process is.

Since 1795 (interrupted by prohibition), 7 generations of the Beam family have been involved in whiskey production for “Jim Beam,” named in honor of James B. Beam who rebuilt the business after prohibition ended. Strict government standards must be followed for production of bourbon; by law any “straight” bourbon must be: 1) produced in the U.S.; 2) made of a grain mix of at least 51% corn; 3) distilled at no higher than 160 proof (80% alcohol); 4) be free of any additives except water to reduce the proof for aging and bottling; 5) aged in charred white oak barrels (to add flavor and color); 6) added to the aging barrels at no higher than 125 proof (62.5% alcohol); 7) aged for a minimum of 2 years (Jim Beam ages theirs for 9 years); and 8) bottled at no less than 80 proof (40% alcohol).

Jim Beam starts with water filtered naturally by the limestone shelf found in central Kentucky. A strain of yeast (used since the end of prohibition and protected by the Beam family) is added to a tank along with corn, rye and malt to create what is known as “dona yeast,” used later in the fermentation process. This mixture is then moved to large vats, or cookers, where water and “set back” (a portion of the old mash from previous distillations) are added. This is a key step of the sour mash process, ensuring consistency from batch to batch. From the cooker, the mash goes to the fermenter where it is cooled to 60-70° and yeast is added again. The yeast, fed by sugars in the mash, produce heat, carbon dioxide and alcohol and results in “distiller’s beer.” (It actually looks, smells and tastes like a form of beer.) It is then pumped into a column still where it’s heated to over 200° causing the alcohol to turn to a vapor. As this vapor cools and falls it turns to a liquid called “low wine” measuring 125 proof; a 2^nd distillation in a pot still heats and condenses the liquid to a “high wine,” which reaches 125 proof. This high wine is then moved to new, charred American oak barrels, each holding 53 gallons of liquid. These barrels are then moved to rackhouses where they will age up to 9 years. The rack houses are 9 stories high, with barrels 3-high on each floor. We also learned that the barrels on each floor age at different rates, due to the temperature inside and out. If you’re interested in learning more about this check out http://www.whiskeyprof.com/how-a-traditional-rackhouse-works-small-batch-single-barrel/ The “whiskey professor explains it very well. 

We actually bottled some—a 5^th of Knob Creek Single Barrel Bourbon--and it’s setting in our camper, with my thumb print in the wax seal!

Saturday morning was spent planning for the next legs of our trip, before heading to Mammoth Cave 

National Park for a cave tour.

Although the surface of Mammoth Cave National Park encompasses about 80 square miles, over 400 miles of surveyed passages lie beneath, making it the world's longest known cave system and, more passageways are continually being found. Geologists think there could be as many as 600 miles of yet undiscovered passageways in this cave system! A sandstone and shale cap, as thick as 50 feet in places, covers the limestone ridges beneath. Seeping water from the surface eroded the limestone into a honeycomb of caverns. Today, more than 10 miles of passages are available for tours. 

We took the “Domes and Dripstones” tour lasting approximately 2 hours. (There were 117 people on our tour.) Although we had been in other much more beautiful caves, such as Carlsbad in New Mexico, Kartchner Caverns in Arizona, and Sonora in Texas, this was awe-inspiring realizing the magnitude of this cave system. Some of the passageways were quite narrow and steep—we had to go down 280 steps at the beginning of the tour—and some of the passageways were so narrow you had to turn sideways to get through. Drips of water continually fell, giving us “cave kisses” as we walked through. We’re glad we experienced this wonderful aspect of nature.

But, that said, we’re sure feeling the muscles in our legs now! The steep staircases and uneven walkways are taking their toll on us today! We can hardly walk, and we’re used to walking! Ha!

Sunday morning was spent on more planning for our trips. It was sunny and hot, and we didn’t leave Granny’s until close to 1 p.m., for our 66 mile trip to Frankfort, KY and the Elkhorn River Campground and RV Park. Temps had climbed to the low 90s by the time we arrived. Whew! We had to set up temporarily in the overflow lot, until our spot opened up for us on Monday. We didn’t even bother to unhitch from the truck.

Most of the sites are quite narrow, but deep, and all have concrete pads.  There’s plenty of room for slides, thankfully. Today, Monday, we’re all set up in our site, slides deployed, motorcycle off the back, bicycles unloaded and we’re set for a few days.

That’s it, folks, for this week. Hope you’re continuing to enjoy our adventures. We appreciate you!

Hugs,

RJ and Gail

Carterville, IL to Nashville, TN – May 16-23, 2016

Monday morning our 5^th wheel went into Kamper’s Supply garage service bay for service. A new inverter was installed to fix the RV's 12-volt system. Our kitchen/living room slide needed a repair so it would close all the way. Parts needed to be ordered so more work would be done later in the week when they arrived. Shirley and Marvin graciously let us spend the day in their living room since our “home” wasn’t available. So, I sat and worked on the blog for last week, and Dick worked on upgrading one of their computers. The day was rather chilly, just 54° and rainy, so that worked for us. That evening we had dinner with Marv and Shirley at a Mexican restaurant in nearby Marion, IL, La Fiesta. We noshed on chips and salsa, taco salad, chicken fajita quesadilla, enchiladas, and grilled shrimp. Yummy! And, their margaritas weren’t bad either!

Tuesday was another rainy and cold day, with temps in the 50s again. Brrr! Dick took the big black truck in for an oil change that morning. I did a few things around the camper (we got it back from service Monday evening), and spent some time knitting and computing. When Dick got back we tackled the bedroom slide and bed issue. Yea! He fixed it! That bed will never come away from the slide wall again!

That evening Marvin and Shirley and Dick and I drove into Carbondale, near Southern Illinois University, to have dinner at Pagliai’s Pizza with friends Randy and Jeri. All but Marvin had their special pasta dinner; he enjoyed a huge plate of spaghetti with meat sauce. Good stuff! Then, it was off to Marvin and Shirley’s where we spent an evening playing 7s from Hell, a game new to Dick and me. The women won the evening! Yahoo!

On Wednesday morning more work was done on the camper. A new skylight over the bathroom and rubber gaskets around the kitchen/living room slide needed to be installed. Dick worked on one of the office computers while I read and knitted. That evening was dinner at Backyard Burger for burgers, with Marvin and Shirley, and Randy and Jeri. Yum! Then, it was off to Randy and Jeri’s for another round of 7s. The men won. Dang.

Thursday Dick continued to work on one of the office computers at Kamper’s Supply, while I knitted and computed. This would be our last day with them before hitting the road Friday. We did a bit of shopping at Kamper’s Supply, too, purchasing 2 new chairs, an aluminum table and new mat stakes. (Love shopping there!) Then, it was off to Hobby Lobby for a new knitting needle and a bit more yarn (can never have enough!), and a stop to fuel the truck. That evening we had dinner at Golden Corral with Marv and Shirley, Randy and Jeri, and an evening of 7s. Again, the men won... Boo…

On the road again! Friday was a good day for a drive from Carterville, IL to Nashville,TN, with occasional rain and lots of traffic the closer we got to Nashville, just 190 miles away. Temps were in the high 50s that morning, but warmed to the mid-60s by the time we arrived at our new destination. Our new “park” was at The Fairgrounds Nashville. Here there are no amenities, but we had full hookup and there is a security patrol. And, we’re very close to downtown where we wanted to spend lots of time.

There’s more to Nashville than being the Country Music Capital of the World. It’s also the capital of the state of Tennessee and home to numerous colleges and universities. Nashville has experienced tremendous growth since the 1970s, with the construction or renovation of several city landmarks, including the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum, the Nashville Public Library, the Bridgestone Arena (home to the Predators hockey team), and Nissan Stadium (home of the Tennessee Titans). Today, Nashville is one of the fastest growing areas of what’s called the Upland South. There are over 100 cranes in Nashville, being used to build, build, build. It’s been said that about 90,000 people move into Nashville every year. Wow!

 However, we were there for the music. 

Weather promised to cooperate during our stay, and we were not disappointed. Saturday dawned bright and sunny with temps starting out in the low 60s. There was a breeze to keep us cool the entire day, as temps rose to the high 80s later in the day. 

We headed downtown, parking across from Music City center along Korean Veterans Boulevard. We wanted to take in as much of the Nashville scene during the day as possible. We first oriented ourselves to downtown and Honky Tonk Row, which seems to be the center of action. There were lots of people and quite a party atmosphere, even at mid-morning. Live music poured from every bar/restaurant on the Row, and smiles were on everyone’s faces. Very cool!

We found we had to walk 7 blocks up hill (who knew Nashville was so hilly?) to the Musicians Hall of Fame and Museum, our first stop of the day. This is one place not to miss, as this hall of fame honors all musicians regardless of genre or instrument. Inductees are nominated by current members of the American Federation of Musicians and by other music industry professionals. The first annual inductee celebration was held in 2007 inducting folks we hadn’t heard of (and who we later learned were studio musicians), such as The Funk Brothers, The Nashville A-Team, The Wrecking Crew, and others. However, we know of the performers at that first event: Garth Brooks, Vince Gill, Amy Grant, B.J. Thomas, George Jones, and others. Subsequent inductees included, among others: (2008) The Crickets, Duane Eddy, and Booker T and the MGs; (2009) Chet Atkins, Toto, and Charlie Daniels; (2014) Barbara Mandrell, Peter Frampton, Stevie Ray Vaughan, and Roy Orbison. (The 4-year absence was due to the relocation of the Hall of Fames. Under the rules of eminent domain, the city of Nashville purchased their original property in February 2010 in order to make room for the new Music City Center, and in August 2013 the Hall of Fame reopened its doors at its current location.)

The Musicians Hall of Fame is the one and only museum in the world that honors the musicians who actually played on the greatest recordings of all time. Some, like Jimi Hendrix are well known, while others like session drummer Hal Blaine are not well known to the public, but have played on hundreds of hit records for Elvis, the Sinatras, The Byrds, The Mamas and The Papas, and the Beach Boys, to name just a few. The Museum exhibits the instruments that these musicians used to record many of these classic hits.

The museum is divided into cities that have a history of recorded music, like Detroit, Nashville, Muscle Shoals, L.A., Memphis and New York. These places had musicians who were there when the recording industry was evolving and were able to play whatever was needed of them regardless of style. This is where the A-Team, The Memphis Boys, The Funk Brothers and The Wrecking Crew got their names, some becoming hit bands themselves, like Booker T and MGs, and Toto. From the late 50s through the mid-80s these studio musicians played on 80-90% of all records recorded in these music centers. Following are just a couple of the highlights.

Glen Campbell started out as a session guitar player, appearing on hits by Herb Alpert, The Monkees, The Beach Boys, Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin, to name a few. During his 50+ years in show business, Glen Campbell released more than 70 albums, sold 45 million records and accumulated 12 Gold albums, 4 Platinum albums, and 1 Double Platinum albums. His hits include his recordings of “Gentle on My Mind,” “By the Time I Get To Phoenix,” “Wichita Lineman,” “Galveston,” “Rhinestone Cowboy,” and “Southern Nights.”

Then, there’s the tribute to Roy Orbison. In this exhibit are the prescription sunglasses that become the Orbison trademark, his 1957 Gibson Byrdland guitar, model airplanes and boats that was his hobby, the cast from his injury in a motorcycle accident, a 1961 Gibson 335 guitar used in recording of “Pretty Woman.” Orbison’s influence on music as a writer, singer, and musician is immeasurable; he influenced artists like the Beatles, Tom Petty and Bruce Springsteen, to name a few (excerpted from a statement by Joe Chambers, Founder of the Musicians Hall of Fame and Museum).

The Musicians Hall of Fame recently opened the GRAMMY Museum (April 2016) as part of a partnership orchestrated by a record label executive and a philanthropist. This interactive exhibit is designed to appeal to students who will be able to explore the creative process of writing, recording, and producing music. Recording studios are available for use. 

 We were starving after our walk uphill and down, and the 2½ hours we spent at the Musicians Hall of Fame, so food was our next order of business. We decided on “linner” at Rippy’s Ribs on 5^th and Broadway. I had a rib sandwich, while Dick had a chicken wrap. Good food, lively atmosphere, and wonderful live music! 

Nashville hosts quite a party atmosphere, and we saw lots of bachelorette parties celebrating the brides’ last days of freedom.

Live music is performed at every restaurant and bar along Honky Tonk Row from about 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. daily. These musicians are hoping to get “found” moving them to a recording deal. Pretty cool, and they were all really good! What makes one group or individual better than the next, on their way (hopefully) to being discovered…??

Sunday was another beautiful day in this city of music, with temps starting out at 57°, eventually climbing to the high 80s. We scheduled a walking tour of downtown Nashville, starting at 12:30, so off we went. We decided to park at the Nashville Public Library and walk the 2½ blocks to Ernest Tubb’s Record Shop where our tour would begin. The Docent, Kelsie, was wonderful, sharing quite a few tidbits and anecdotes about well known—and some not so well known—country music stars. She was very knowledgeable and entertaining, and knew quite a bit (she’s been in Nashville for over 28 years). 

Throughout the record shop, along with CDs, DVDs, books, knick-knacks and autographed photos, are framed photos of Loretta Lynn, Hank Williams, Patsy Cline, Johnny and June Cash, Brenda Lee, Chet Atkins, and of course, Ernest Tubbs, among many, many others. It’s quite the repository of photos of country music stars! At the back of the store is a small stage that is still used for special performances by country stars, for special events. The store isn’t that big, so the crowds really pack in! On the stage are orange crates that were used by Loretta Lynn, and others, so that those in the back could see as well as hear her sing. 

From there we crossed the street to “Legends Corner,” just one of the many honky tonks on the street. Here, Keith Urban was discovered, as well as many, many other artists. As I mentioned, live music was being played everywhere, and this was no exception. Lefty Ferguson and his Right Hand Band were playing—and they were really good! Here are just a few photos taken inside Legends. The walls were lined with photos and album covers, almost like wallpaper, plus 5 original 78 RPM Elvis records from Sun Records (Memphis), a set of KISS dolls, a 12-string autographed guitar once owned by Johnny Cash, and musical instruments from all over the world. Crazy guitars also graced the walls, as you’ll see from the photos, along with memorabilia such as the first albums done by many of country music’s Legends. It’s been voted #1 Country Bar in Nashville and, it appears, it’s well deserved.

 From Legends we walked up the street a bit to the Ryman Auditorium, the 5^th home of the Grand Ole Opry. I was so intrigued by the Ryman Auditorium story, that I’m sharing most of it with you. (Unfortunately, we ran out of time during our stay in Nashville, so we weren’t able to take the tour. Next time...)

Ryman Auditorium was built as a Union Gospel Mission in 1891, whose construction was spearheaded by a Nashville businessman who owned several saloons and a fleet of riverboats. He attended one of the revival meetings intending to heckle, but was instead converted into a devout Christian, and soon thereafter pledged to build the tabernacle so the people of Nashville could attend a large-scale revival indoors. It took 7 years to build, at the then cost of $100,000. 

Though the building was designed to be a house of worship, it was often leased to non-religious events in an effort to pay off its debts ($20,000) and remain open. Lula C. Naff, a local widow and mother, took over booking and promoting speaking engagements and concerts, boxing matches and other attractions. Her ability to book stage shows and entertainers kept the Ryman at the forefront of Nashville’s conscience and enhanced the city’s reputation as a cultural center for the performing arts. Lectures by Presidents Teddy Roosevelt and William Taft, as well as performances by W.C. Fields, Will Rogers, Charlie Chaplin, Bob Hope, Harry Houdini and John Philip Sousa earned the Ryman the nickname “The Carnegie Hall of the South.”  

Early on the Ryman lacked a true backstage area, and had only 1 dressing room for the men, while the women were relegated to an inadequate ladies’ restroom. This caused many performers to have to wait in the wings, the narrow hallways, and the alley behind the building’s south wall, which incidentally led to the back door of Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge and other bars, where they would drink alongside and often perform for patrons--thus, the notoriety of the honky-tonk bars along lower east Broadway.

The Grand Ole Opry was first broadcast from the Ryman on June 5, 1943, and originated from there every week for nearly 31 years, with every show sold out and hundreds turned away. The show could be heard in 30 states across the eastern part of the nation; parts of the show were also broadcast on network radio and TV to a wider audience. Combining the current usage with the building’s origin as a house of worship, the Ryman earned the nickname “The Mother Church of Country Music,” which it still holds today.

The Ryman, then governed by a Board of Directors, was eventually sold to WSM, Inc. in 1963, who also owned the Opry, for $207,500. The company made minor improvements to the Ryman, but soon began making plans to move it to a new custom-built location altogether, allowing for better radio and TV production facilities, and better facilities for the performers and audiences alike. Thus Opryland USA was born.

The Ryman Auditorium sat decaying and mostly vacant for nearly 20 years, as the homeless moved in, pigeons and rats took over, windows were broken and some of the wood in the building was used for fires by the homeless to keep warm. However, the building continued to stand and despite its deteriorating condition it was never totally closed. It still held an attraction for tourists. Even while the building was vacant it still had life. Portions of major motion pictures continued to be filmed on location there, including Coal Miner’s Daughter (Loretta Lynn), Sweet Dreams (Patsy Cline), Honkytonk Man (Clint Eastwood), and John Carpenter’s Elvis.

The sale of all WSM and Opryland properties in 1983 to Gaylord Entertainment Company included the Ryman Auditorium, most certainly saved it from demolition. In 1989 Gaylord Entertainment began work to beautify Ryman’s exterior, including a new roof, replacement of broken windows and bricks, and wood repair. The interior was left untouched until 1992 when plans were made to renovate and expand the entire building. Renovations began in 1993, including restoring the wooden pews (original to the building and still serve as the auditorium’s seating), a remodeled and restored balcony, new backstage facilities, a lobby, restrooms, concessions, offices, and a grand staircase leading to the balcony. A new entry and plaza was added, and air conditioning was added for the first time. In 2012 the stage was replaced to triple the stage’s load capacity and ensure that the venue would remain viable as a concert venue in the future. Additional renovations were made in 2015 to include more lobby space, expanded restrooms, concessions, a gift shop, and a restaurant called “Café Lula,” named in memory of Lula C. Naff. Also added was a 100-seat theater which houses a short biographical film on the history of the Ryman.

Experts have praised Ryman Auditorium’s acoustics, calling them the best in the world, rivaling the Morman Tabernacle and Carnegie Hall. Ryman Auditorium is now is on the National Register of Historic Places (1971), and was further designated a National Historic Landmark in 2001. It’s a 2,362-seat live performance venue.

I’m so sorry we didn’t have time to see this fabulous piece of music history. Next time…

Our next stop was the alley behind Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge, which I mentioned earlier. Hattie Louise “Tootsie” Bess, owner from 1960 to 1978, wanted the building painted; a painter mistakenly painted the exterior orchid purple. The color was never changed and became Tootsie’s signature color. A portion of “Coal Miner’s Daughter” was filmed here. It’s said that Willie Nelson received his first songwriting gig after singing at Tootsies! Tootsie was known to be generous to struggling musicians and would often slip 5’s and 10’s into their pockets. It’s also said that she had a cigar box behind the counter full of IOU’s from when she had given food and drinks to hungry writers and pickers. And, at the end of the year a bunch of Opry performers would pay off all those IOU’s so Tootsie wouldn’t lose any money. She was buried in 1978 in an orchid gown, with and orchid placed in the orchid-colored casket. 2010 marked Tootsie’s 50^th anniversary with performances at the Ryman from Kris Kristofferson, Little Jimmy Dickens, and Mel Tills, among others.

From there we walked through the alley to 4^th Street and down to Broadway, where we stopped at Savannah Candy Kitchen for a taste of their pralines, and a look at their massive array of candies, ice cream, and other stuff. Wow!

 Then, it was on to a stop in front of the Johnny Cash Museum. We didn’t go in on Saturday, but did stop in on Sunday when we went back downtown

On to the Walk of Fame Park. The Music City Walk of Fame is a walk that honors significant contributors to Nashville’s musical heritage and significant achievements in the music industry. Each honoree is commemorated with a large stainless steel and terrazzo star embedded in the sidewalk. It was established in 2006 by the Nashville Convention and Visitors Bureau, and Gibson Guitars is a founding sponsor. Today, there are about 50 stars on that walk. More will be added this year.

We decided to have dinner at Jack’s BBQ on Honky Tonk Row, a famed eatery among the locals. No, we didn’t see anyone famous… We had sandwiches made with smoked turkey and BBQ brisket. (The turkey was better.)

Then, back to the parking lot at the Nashville Library. Unfortunately the exit was a bit too narrow for our dually. We damaged the right rear fender. Dang! Thank goodness we didn’t take out the ticket booth!

We made a stop at Walmart before heading back to our camper for the evening. We were tired, and both slept very well Sunday night!

We decided to include Monday’s adventure in this blog since we leave Nashville Tuesday. After a stop at a local post office we headed into Nashville to visit the famed Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum (yesterday we saw the Musicians Hall of Fame and Museum. Different place; slightly different name.) We opted to park at Nissan Stadium and walk the ¾ mile across the Shelby Street Bridge. Beautiful day, lovely walk. From the bridge we had a lovely view of the parks along Cumberland River and the parks that line it.

Then it was on to the Country Music Hall of Fame, with a brief stop at the Johnny Cash Museum.

His museum held a plethora of memorabilia, articles for purchase and his museum.  All manner of memorabilia were for sale, but we didn’t buy. Nor did we pay the $18 per person to walk through his museum.

 Instead, we headed to the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum.

We spent almost 3 hours at this huge tribute to country music and its musicians. What a place! It covers just a mere 350,000 square feet! 

There are permanent exhibits, as well as featured exhibits, a Taylor Swift education center, and the Hall of Fame Rotunda which is a hallowed room designed to recognize each Hall of Fame member in a space and fashion befitting the most esteemed honor in country music. 

 One of the features this month was a tribute to Bob Dylan, in honor of his 75^th birthday.

 The 2 floors of the Museum’s gallery follow the evolution of country music within the context of American history. Artifacts, video footage, sound recordings, biographical panels, guitars, clothing and memorabilia, and audio tours tell the stores of those who have helped shape country music. Oh, and then there’s Elvis’s gold Cadillac and his gold piano, and a Pontiac belonging to Webb Pierce complete with coins, guns and rifles adorning it.

 The 5,300 square foot Country Music Hall of Fame Rotunda inspires reverence for the deepest roots of music. The bronze plaques are place randomly around the room, except for the newest inductees, whose plaques are placed alongside the painting, The Sources of Country Music, by Thomas Hart Benton. Commissioned by the Country Music Hall of Fame, it was completed in 1975 by the 85-year old artist—an impressive physical achievement.

Election to this Hall of Fame is country music’s highest honor. Since 1961, over 147 people or groups have been added to the Country Hall of Fame membership list. Three more will be added this year. We were amazed.

By the time we were done at the Hall of Fame and Museum we were pretty bushed. We still had a bit of a walk from there to our truck, parked across the Cumberland River at Nissan Stadium, about a mile+ away. The sun was beating down and the temps had reached the mid- to high 90s, so we were glad to head back to our camper. Whew!

We considered driving to the Opry Hotel and seeing the Grand Ole Opry building, but that will have to wait ‘til next time we visit. We think we need about a month here!

That’s it for this week. Hope you enjoyed our blog for this week. We sure enjoyed our time here in Nashville!

Hugs,

RJ and Gail